Iceland in 5 days

The plane descended through the clouds and a desolate volcano landscape emerged. Iceland is supernaturally beautiful and we spent about a week on this sparsely populated island. We based ourselves in the capital, Reykjavik, from where it was easy to make a series of day-trips to the surrounding areas.

 

Day 1: Reykjavik

  • The city is extremely compact and walking around the main shopping and dining street of Laugavegur is a great way to familiarise yourself with Reykjavik. Make sure not to miss the old harbour, Volcano House, and Hallgrimskirkja.
  • There are loads of places to wine and dine. Try coffee at Kaffi París on the corner of Pósthússtræti and Austurstræti or The Laundromat Café (also on Austurstræti) for burgers – and washing your clothes!
  • Bar hopping is a must in Reykjavik and don’t miss the Lebowski Bar. Perhaps don’t spend the whole night here, but be sure to check out all the floors.
The view from the Hallgrímskirkja clocktower. The church is Reykjavík's main landmark and its tower can be seen from almost everywhere in the city.
The view from the Hallgrímskirkja clocktower. The church is Reykjavík’s main landmark and its tower can be seen from almost everywhere in the city.

 

Day 2: Reykjanis Peninsula

  • If you’ve arrived by plane you would’ve already seen the peninsula from the air. There are several routes you can follow around Reykjanis Peninsula, but from Reykjavik to Gardur, down to Grindavik and back to Reykjavik again is between 170 – 200km depending on any detours you take.
  • As you’re leaving Reykjavik, make a quick stop at The Saga Museum for great views of the city and also a somewhat eery walkthrough of Iceland’s saga history.
  • Kaffi Duus in Kevlavik is a great spot for lunch.
  • People usually combine a trip around the peninsula with a visit to the Blue Lagoon Spa, but we kept it separate (see below).
The lighthouse near Garður.
The lighthouse near Garður.

 

Day 3: Geysir

  • From Reykjavik a round trip to Geysir could easily be 120km. This route is heavily marketed as part of the “Golden Circle” tours and if you opt for one of the several commercial options, it can be done with anything from a bicycle to a supertruck. It’s very easy though to do a self-drive trip.
  • If you see Geysir erupt, you’ll be on the news as it’s not erupted in a VERY long time. Stokkur on the other hand goes off every 10 minutes or so. Hotel Geysir is a good location for lunch, but can be very busy at times.
  • Some of the other amazing sights on this route includes Gullfoss waterfall and Pingvellir (ancient Icelandic parlement and also where two tectonic plates meet).

 

Day 4: Vik (The South)

  • The return trip to Vik from Reykjavik is in the region of 370km. We did it in a day, but if you have a bit more time I would recommend you do it over a couple of days. There are several good places to stay along the route, including excellent camping facilities at amazing places like Skógarfoss.
  • You’ll see plenty of green pastures with grazing viking horses, old lava flows, volcanos, glaciers, mythical landscapes, waterfalls, more waterfalls, and if you stop and sit somewhere for a little while and are quiet enough, you might just meet huldufólk (hidden people).
  • Don’t miss a quick stop at Eyjafjallajökull volcano lookout to see the volcano that caused all the chaos back in 2010. Seljalandsfoss was one of my favourite stops and you can walk around the back of the waterfall. Skógarfoss waterfall is another Iceland must-see. It’s a bit of a trek to the top, but it’s worth it. Most people only look at it from below, but you can hike further up into the mountains and soon you’ll have a piece of Iceland completely to yourself. Take a picnic and combined with one of the most epic views in Iceland, you’ll have one of the most memorable moments of your trip.
  • The black beach near Vik is another unforgettable scene. Keep an eye out for dive-bombing puffins or sit back against the rocks to try and spot the trolls rumoured to live in this area.
Skógafoss waterfall is situated in the south of Iceland on the Skógá River.
Skógarfoss waterfall is situated in the south of Iceland on the Skógá River.

 

Day 5: Reykjavik / Blue Lagoon

  • After all that driving and walking we needed a break to do some serious relaxation at the Blue Lagoon Spa about a 80km round trip from Reykjavik. Many visitors also do it en route to/from the airport if they’re short on time.
  • We arrived just after 12pm and only left around 9pm, but you could easily spend a day here. There’s a walk-up / waterside bar, a cafe, and a restaurant. It is pricey, but a visit to Iceland isn’t complete without a visit here, right?
Highlights
  • Watching the band Botnledja play live at Dillon’s Whiskey Bar in Reykjavik. These legends inspired Blur and also toured with them in the 1990’s. Here we also learned that Icelandic people aren’t afraid to drink!
  • We did a self-drive trip, but Iceland’s bus network is excellent. Onboard you’ve got access to free wifi. Buses are punctual and it really is impressive when you realise the extend of the route network. Booking transfers between the airport and our hotel was easy and all done by reception.
  • Food can be expensive, but most places offer house soup and bread at an affordable price. Look out for their iconic black soup pot and make sure to ask as it isn’t always on the menu.
  • The people are very social and talkative and most Icelandic people are fluent in English making it easy to converse and get insider tips.
  • There are so many geothermal baths and spas in Iceland with several in the capital, it’s almost impossible to choose between them. Don’t be intimidated though about the number of people gathering at these places. Meeting friends (and strangers) at a geothermal bath or spa is a common thing to do for Icelandic people. I’m used to a bit more privacy at baths and spas, but do join in! In Iceland it’s weird if you don’t!
The hardy Icelandic horses can be seen all over the countryside.
The hardy Icelandic horses can be seen all over the countryside.
Fineprint
  • In Iceland there is 90km/h speed limit making relatively short distances a bit longer to travel. Roads are good though and driving around the island is a breeze.
  • The midnight sun was something unreal to experience (my first time). It never went dark whilst we were there. We got caught out a few times thinking it was still early in the evening, whilst in fact it was after midnight!
  • Whale meat is available at several places on the menu, including whale meat burgers. You’ve got to make up your own mind whether you think it’s ethical or not to eat whale meat, but the simple fact is that most Icelanders no longer eat whale meat and the slaughter of whales in the waters around Iceland are now mostly to supply the tourist industry.
  • Alcohol is expensive and most visitors stock up at the airport before entering Iceland. Locals also drink at home before they go to bars and clubs to save on cost – meaning by the time you find yourself in a bar, the party has been going for a while. Do try brennivín, but beware, it’s not called ‘burning water’ for nothing…
Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach, Reykjavik.
Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach, Reykjavik.